There is controversy regarding the name and location of the Chulu peaks. There are several peaks forming part of Chulu massif but these are not always indicated on maps. It is therefore sometimes difficult to differentiate between the two trekking Chulus (East and West) as the group comprises of four peaks, two to the east and two to the west. To add further confusion, Chulu West may also be called Chulu Central. Chulu West lies to the north of Annapurna above the Manang Valley and is the highest of the peaks. It was first climbed in 1952 by a Japanese Expedition. The Base Camp for the climb is situated in a small valley north of Manang, off the main trail to the Thorang La. At Chauri Lather we take a narrow, steep trail up to a Base Camp at 4800m. From there we climb steep, rocky ground to a high camp at about 5300m. There is no technical difficulty involved in reaching the summit, but progress can be slow as the slopes are vulnerable to avalanches in certain conditions.
An ascent of Chulu West and Chulu Central are best made from a base camp in a small valley north of Manang situated off the main trail to Thorong La pass 5416m. Indeed some of the best views of this peak can be had from that pass.
Climb the rock band with some difficulty to the north-west shoulder of Chulu west 5450 meters/17,880 feet, where another camp can be established or alter-native a camp can be placed on a snow plateau above 5,530 meters/18,143 feet. On the first ascent and several subsequent ascents rope was fixed on the rock band. From the plateau continue up the progressively narrowing ridge to the summit 6,250 meters /20,505 feet. Descend by the same route.
North-West Ridge: Go beyond the hut following the yak pastures and walk up a ridge which leads into a hidden valley where it is possible to find a good site for the base camp. From this camp, ascend steep scree slopes to a col 4,900/16,076 feet), on a subsidiary ridge that leads down from the main ridge. To the north of the col ascend snow slope for 200 meters to the base of a band of rock at an altitude of 5,100 meters and the site for a possible high camp.
