Makalu Expedition

Height: 27,765 feet (8,463 meters)
Location: Makalu-Barun, Nepal/Tibet, Asia
Lat/Lon: 27.8899°N, 87.0884°E

Makalu, the world's fifth highest peak in the world rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The subsidiary peak rising just north of the main summit connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.) It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.

The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect - Kumba Karna, which means The Giant.

Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been no known winter ascents of this peak.

Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954.

Makalu West Face
It is a very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final.
The West Face was successfully summit in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, led by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45-degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75-degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to the summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Day 01:

Arrival Kathmandu & Transfer to hotel

Day 02:

prepare for expedition

Day 03:

Briefing in Ministry of tourism prepare for the expedition

Day 04:

Fly to Tumlingtar - camping

Day 05:

Tumlingtar - Kuwapani

Day 06.

Kuwapani - Chichila

Day 07:

Chichila - Num

Day 08:

Num- Seduwa

Day 09:

Seduwa - Tashigaun

Day 10:

Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)

Day 11:

Khongmadanda - Mumfuk

Day 12:

Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak

Day 13:

Yangle Khark -Merak

Day 14:

Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize

Day 15:

Sersung - Makalu Base camp

Day 16-47:

Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)

Day 48:

Makalu BC - Mumbuck

Day 49:

Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)

Day 50:

Khongma La - Seduwa

Day 51:

Seduwa - Chichila

Day 52:

Chichila - Tumlingtar

Day 53:

Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight

Day 54:

Kathmandu

Day 55:

Final Departure

  1. Permit Fee {Royalty} Annapurna 4th.
  2. 5 nights accommodation with bed & breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
  3. Drive to Besisahar & Beni - Pokhara & Kathmandu.
  4. Full board trekking with lodge & Food for BC Expedition period.
  5. Porter Besishar to BC & while back.
  6. Equipment: trekking equipment for BC, 1 tent for 2 persons, dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses.
  7. All kitchen equipment for BC.
  8. Staff allowance, Liaison office allowances, equipment allowances, flight ticket, insurance
  9. Annapurna Conservation fee.
  10. All transfer airport-hotel-airport.
  11. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen Helper.
  12. All necessary taxes.
  13. Agency service charge.
  1. Personal equipment for climbing.
  2. Personal Insurance of Climber.
  3. Climbing food, Gas & stove.
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  5. Nepal visa, International flight ticket.
  6. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter.
  7. Walki Takie permit.
  8. Radio Permit.
  9. Climbing Sherpa.
  10. Bar Bill & Beverages.
  11. Personal expenses etc.

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